Wednesday 4 December 2013

Lamington to Wollongong

We arrived at Brisbane Airport after leaving Queensland safely and on time, it shows the immense distances involved in travelling around Australia in that we had flown for nearly 3 hours and were still in the same state. It was fairly straightforward picking up our camper van which was to be our home for the next 12 days although later developments proved that things were not as easy as first thought. Our salesman there kindly set up an account to cover travelling on the Toll roads. Despite his assurances that this would cover me in both Brisbane and Sydney this was not the case and the account he set up was valid for Queensland only and as a result I was hit with 5 unpaid toll fines and 4 administration fees from Apollo themselves leaving me around $360 out of pocket which still has not been resolved even though it is apparent that Apollo themselves bear responsibility. Currently Apollo's only answer is that they gave me a magazine outlining the toll system and have offered to refund some of their administration fee, but I feel that although it is not part of their remit to set up Toll payments their salesman offered to do it for us and assured me that I was covered in both Brisbane and Sydney so why should I need to investigate further and even if I had read this newsletter would that have told me that a temporary pass set up with GoVia ( the toll company) was only valid in Queensland.

As these issues only came to light several weeks after our return to the UK I can only say that picking up the camper van went smoothly and we were soon on our way. We reached Canungra without incident and topped up with provisions for the stay in the Lamington National Park however we missed the turning here being intent on finding a supermarket and wasted over an hour travelling the wrong way. Eventually we realised and returned to Canungra and finding the correct road started the drive up to the campsite next to the famous O'Reilley's Rainforest Lodge. The road was only around 32kms but it was not for the faint-hearted, very steep, lots of hairpin bends, blind corners  and minibuses coming to other way meant to say at the least I had a very nervous passenger and was glad to arrive after what felt like an eternity. A Noisy Pitta flew across our path as we neared the campsite.  Consequently we arrived much later in the day than we had hoped taking nearly double the time Google maps had told me it would and there was only time for a quick walk to get our bearings before dark but we did get to see our first Wonga Pigeon and the Pademelons in the campsite were now of the  Red-necked variety.
National parks campsite outside O'Reilley's in Lamington NP
Red-necked Pademelon
King Parrot
Crimson Rosella

We were awake next morning at first light full of anticipation, as we ate breakfast we were joined by a ridiculously tame Satin Bowerbird. We walked up to O'Reilley's hoping to be able to have a look round before it became busy there were already a couple of birders wandering around and after a chat to one of them we started to wander down the track we had not gone far when he appeared again and called me back although our target had disappeared again after a brief wait I peered over a fence into a little garden and there only a few feet away was a pair of Albert's Lyrebird and where was the camera oh yes back in the camper van.!  A couple of Wonga Pigeons wandered around the grass and knowing that the Morning Bird Walk would soon begin and food would be available the Rosellas and King Parrots started to arrive they were joined by the stunning Regent Bowerbirds and a confiding Pied Currawong all looking for an easy meal.
Returning back to the van to fetch my camera I spotted some movement and could soon see there was a group of Logrunners scratching around in the leaves on the ground, Lewin's Honey-eaters made there presence heard with their distinctive call and both Yellow-throated and White-browed Scrubwrens crept around the forest floor never standing still for more than a few seconds.

Regent Bowerbird
Satin Bowerbird
Carpet Python ?

Rufous Fantail
White-headed Pigeon



Wonga Pigeon


Brown Cuckoo-Dove
Camera now in hand we returned to the Border Track and began to walk slowly along spotting a White-headed Pigeon perched up in a tree, a calling Noisy Pitta was eventually located after some patience amazing how such a colourful and vocal bird can be hard to find and some very showy Rufous Fantails  eventually sat still enough for a photo. A singing and displaying Brown Gerygone was found next to its intricate nest and eventually we got good views of the very vocal Green Catbirds that had been constantly calling in the distance. A walk on the raised tree walk produced close views of Rose Robin another much hoped for bird here. A peculiar reptile subsequently found to be a Land Mullet was found trying to hide under a log. As we wandered around a small Botanical Gardens situated in the forest we spotted a small brown snake basking on a rock which quickly slid into cover before it could be identified but the huge Carpet Python lying there as well was not so obvious at first although it had recently fed judging by the swelling half way down its body.

Lunch was taken sat at a picnic table surrounded by greedy Parrots and Bowerbirds who would frequently swoop down and try and relieve you of your food if you were distracted as indeed a mince pie stealing Regents Bowerbird did when I wasn't concentrating.
Land Mullet
Rose Robin

Singing Brown Gerygone

Black-faced Monarch
Tree Top Walk at O'Reilley's.

After lunch we walked back down the access road finding more Log-runners and another Albert's Lyrebird on the way. The 4.5k trek down to the Fall's and back was interesting from a floral point with many interesting trees and ferns but new birds were becoming hard to find but we saw several Black-faced Monarchs, more Brown Gerygone, Satin and Regent Bowerbirds and Log-runners. The calls of Eastern Whipbird, Green Catbird and Noisy Pittas  filled the air but no real effort was made to locate them as dusk approached as we walked back several Thrushes were seen most were Bassian but some were most likely Russet-tailed but sightings were too brief to be sure. As we returned to the campsite 2 male Rose Robins were found squabbling over a female giving great views as one of the males tried to chase of the unwelcome suitor.
As we sat in the dark eating dinner there was some movement on the track near us and the torch revealed a Mountain Brushtail Possum boldly walking a few feet away. This prompted a spotlighting walk down the road but this proved fruitless.
Basket fern

Moran Falls

View out from Lamington



Moran's Falls Trail
Grey Goshawk
Lewin's Honey-eater.
Next morning again we were outside O'Reilley's first thing but today there no sign of the Lyrebirds but there were plenty of others showing well Wonga, White-headed Pigeons and a Brown Cuckoo-Dove all posed for pictures while a Grey Goshawk posed in a tree next to the van. A short walk down the access road and Moran Falls trail produced much the same as yesterday except today we had close and prolonged views of a Russet-tailed Thrush as well as a couple of Bassian Thrushes. Some much more shy Wallabies were noted by their characteristic thumping of their feet when alarmed and were subsequently identified as Red-legged Pademelons which we had previously had seen further north.

It was time to leave now as we had to be in Wollongong for Saturday night and we still had around 1400 Klms to go. I had decided to take the New England Highway route south taking us through Glenn Innes, a route which I had hoped would allow us to see more varied habitat than just taking the coast road down to Sydney. It was mid morning by the time left Lamington and made the long journey down the mountain back to Canungra where we restocked provisions and fuel for the journey south, the plan was to overnight in the Sundown NP right on the Queensland border, a brief stop at West Gap picnic site was notable for its Bell Miner colony and some strange rodent type mammals which shot back into cover whenever they saw us which according to the notice boards were Hastings River Mice.  Some flowering trees had a few Little Lorikeets along with the more familiar Musk and Rainbows. We headed for the campsite at Broadwater quite late in the day but it was further off the main road than I had anticipated, the road in was interesting and we could have spent longer exploring but we were keen to find the campsite before dark, 3 Variegated Fairy-wrens including a male were perched on the roadside fence but unfortunately they quickly disappeared before we could get a better look and a group of Apostlebirds crossed in front of us. Final plans though went array when we took a wrong turning on entering the park and followed a campsite sign which proved to be not the intended one and was packed to the brim with fishermen however by this time we were too tired to try and find our intended one and no guarantee there was room there anyway so we booked in and stayed the night. The campsite had lots of flowering trees with a good selection of parrots, Galahs, Rainbow and Musk Lorikeets, Eastern and Pale-headed Rosellas and Sulphur-crested Cockatoos although as dusk fell they were replaced by huge fruit-bats thought to be Grey-headed Flying-foxes but can't be sure,  noisily landing in the trees right above us.
Skippy joins us for breakfast at Glenlyon campsite.
 Breakfast was at first light when Skippy and Joey joined us for a chat along with a group of Apostlebirds and then we made a slow drive out of the park stopping frequently  for birds along the fences, one such bird which we had close and prolonged views of was thought to be our only Tawny Grassbird of the trip while others were Brown Songlark and many Australian Pipits.
Little Lothgothin Lake
 Later moving further south we stopped at Little Lochgothin Lake which probably needed more time than we could give it, here we were able to find 2 more Freckled Duck, at least 4 including 2 male Blue-billed Duck, several Great Crested Grebes, Hardheads, superb views of some singing Reed Warblers, Black-fronted Dotterel, Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike, Sacred Kingfisher, Swamp Harrier and 4 Sharp-tailed Sandpipers, there were possible Musk Duck present in the distance but we didn't have time to walk round and confirm.
Washpool's Campsite.
Moving on down the Western Highway which ranged from spectacular mountain views to bland agricultural landscapes certainly the New England Tablelands produced some spectacular sights even if this meant some steep and winding roads. Generally although the roads were wide and plenty of overtaking lanes driving condition were not especially fast with sudden uneven road surfaces and strict speed restrictions though the towns progress was not as quick as the term highway would suggest and certainly distances should not be taken lightly, I had allowed 3 days for our journey and it was obvious we would need all of that time to make it to Wollongong on time.
Friday night was spent at Washpools Campsite in the Towarri NP a lovely quiet spot by a stream full of birds although only Olive-backed Oriole was new other notable birds seen were Noisy Friarbird, 2 Dollarbird, White-faced Heron in the trickle of a stream, Satin Bower-bird, Red-browed Finch, White-throated Tree-creeper, Wonga Pigeon, Eastern Rosella, Fan-tailed Cuckoo and Yellow-faced Honey-eater
Noisy Friarbird

Laughing Kookaburra

Aust. Magpie

Black Wallaby ?
Leaving the campsite the next day after a short morning walk around the campsite surrounds it was obvious today was to to be a travel day as we were soon on the main highways heading towards Sydney, we did waste some time by coming of the motorway for a break a getting lost finding ourselves at Tuggerah Lake where after lunch we managed to find our way back on to the motorway and continue on towards Sydney, we managed to navigate our way past Sydney with only a few minor mishaps although we planned to cross the Harbour Bridge only to find our route disappeared into a tunnel just as the Bridge came into view and arrived at our campsite at Corrimal Beach late afternoon. Wollongong was a bigger town than I had anticipated and today was the only time apart from our morning in Sydney on the last day had I wished we had taken up the option of hiring a Satnav. The campsite was quite pleasant with several flowering trees with both Red and Little Wattlebirds and groups of Yellow-tailed Black-cockatoos at dusk. A Caspian Tern patrolled the beach and the usual Superb Fairy-wrens hopped round the campsite. We did a recce down to make sure we could find the harbour as next day was to be our pelagic.

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